BUILD NOT FINISHED YET. THIS IS SOLELY NOTE TAKING. DO NOT FOLLOW
- FOCBOX Motor Controller
- Turnigy SK8 6374-192KV Sensored Brushless Motor (14P)
- 2.4GHz Transmitter Remote Controller + Receiver + Bind Plug for Skateboard OS917
- Vruzend 1.5 kit - I would not recommend this to others, as they've brought me much trouble. Try NESE modules or a prebuilt battery instead.
- 30x Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh - 15A
- 36V 37V 42V 10S 60A 10x 3.6V Lithium ion LiPolymer Battery BMS
- Owlsome 90mm Wheels Longboard Flywheels + Owlsome ABEC 7 Precision Bearings, spacers
- Caliber Trucks Cal II 50° RKP Longboard Trucks - set of two
- DIYE Premium Electric Skateboard Motor Mount (Caliber II Truck Compatible) 63mm
- Deck - Anything will work that fits the batteries. I used a beat up 40" pintail longboard deck I found at a pawn shop. Sanded off the damaged design and varnished the wood before clear coating.
- Longboard hardware (8 nuts and bolts, >1")
- 10x pairs of XT60 connectors
- 2x pairs of XT60S connectors (for anti-spark loop key)
- 10x pairs of XT90 connectors
- 42V Power Adapter Charger - Cut connector and solder XT60 onto.
Notes for others
Building your own battery costs more, but I enjoy working with and studying with battery tech. If using this build as inspiration, consider LiPO's and a balance charger for cheaper but heavier batteries.
Don't try to solder 18650's! The heat will damage them no matter how fast you try to do it.
Electric skateboarding is not cost efficient or safe compared to electric bikes. They are more of an portable lightweight commuter and fun ride. If you're looking for a car replacement, I would look towards DIY electric bikes.
I have not tested 3D printing motor mounts or pulleys yet, but I would like to. There is carbon fiber filament that apparently holds well? PLA is heavily not recommended. You could also mill your own out of aluminum if you have the tools. I will try this on a later build.
Obviously, wear a full face helmet.
v0: writing documentation, no working product.